The designer Rick Owens has long, in his words ... but I was gravitating to the creative gesture beyond paint on a canvas—I wanted a full ethos and physical commitment.

“It’s part Levi’s jacket, part biker jacket, part Madeleine Vionnet,” Rick Owens told Vogue in 2003, describing one of his signature pieces. “All that, cut apart and somehow Scotch-taped ...