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It is not just the store, however. We must also mourn the 71-year-old Zodiac Room, where each meal starts with a demitasse cup of chicken consommé and complimentary popovers with strawberry butter.

Customers start lunch with demitasse cups of chicken broth, a tradition that dates back to 1955. The soothing, sophisticated broth remained in “huge” demand decades later — like in 2021 ...