I remember my grandmother hurrying home from the local fish market to prepare this stew for our family. As she prepared the dish, its scent would waft through the house, making my stomach rumble.

MAKE AHEAD: The stew’s base can ... or until the fish is opaque and flakes easily. Stir in the reserved orange juice and remove from the heat. Serve hot, garnished with some reserved fennel ...

The server places the roiling pot on a cart ... the Chinese roasted fish remains searingly hot as you flake off the delicate flesh with your chopsticks. A specialty from Chongqing, in the Sichuan ...