Quench Tank Ideas - Hot Work - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Apr 26, 2016 · This is one of the VERY rare instances I'd suggest using a semisolid quenchant like Goddard's Goop (roughly equal parts paraffin wax and bacon grease/Crisco with a bit of ATF thrown in, mixed warm and allowed to set) in a shallow pan long enough for the blade but short enough for the handles to project over the ends.
Quenched with Rutlands asking advice - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Oct 29, 2012 · One other suggestion. Get rid of the Goddard's goop unless spilling is a problem. That's the reason that Wayne Goddard formulated it, so he could carry it in the trunk of his car to demonstrations without spilling it all over the place. If you can't afford a commercial quenchant go with something like canola or peanut oil.
grrrrr..... blade won't harden - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Jan 26, 2005 · I've used this steel before, hardened it, file tested the edge and broken a couple blades. So I know that this stuff is supposed to do what I'm asking it to. My quenchant has been olive oil, I recently switched to "Goddards goop" at about 40 parrafin to 60 oil with about a Tbsp of dishwashing detergent thrown in for good measure.
Bluing / Blackening of steel - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Jan 30, 2021 · Hi guys, I've seen some really black knife fittings lately, and I am curious as to the process of getting them that way. From what I could see in the YouTube video, the bladesmith lowers the parts into a thick boiling "goo" and leaves it for an unknown amount of time. When the fittings come back ...
Traditional Hatori Polishing Tips - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Jan 24, 2014 · Speaking from experience, you're not going to get a traditional polish with modern abrasives. There's just something about tojiru goop, and fingerstones that does things that nothing else will. My theory is that modern abrasives are too uniform and too hard to break down properly. Also, don't forget to make or buy decent nugui.
Leather Grip on Swords - Page 2 - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Oct 1, 2009 · Tandy's Leather Co. sells a tool for about $15 that they call a Super Skiver. It gives a little more control over using a knife for skiving and uses inexpensive, replaceable blades.
Knife with pleistocene bone handle - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Jun 15, 2024 · I want to do proper medieval leather dyeing sometime, but that's another project. I first finished the sheath end and thong more neatly, and then applied the leather dye. I picked dark red, emulating madder dye, of which I've seen examples getting this dark if well done. The sheath was then sealed with goop (beeswax, lineseed oil, turpentine).
quenching/differential heat treating a sword blade
Nov 6, 2010 · I had anticipated an edge quench in a roof gutter filled with a Wayne Goddard-type goop. If I need to quench vertically, I have a few questions regarding volume. Is a 3-4 inch pipe filled with motor oil, animal fat, melted candles going to work or will I need to go to a larger diameter of cylinder and a particular quenchant?
Osmund knife - Show and Tell - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Aug 17, 2023 · The backside carvings is based on 204. The blade part of the front side I filled in myself. I've left the color natural. I want to experiment with dyeing recipes on future sheaths. It's made it waterproof using a goop recipe recommended to me (beeswax/boiled lineseed oil/gum turpentine). I happened to already have those ingredients.
Cutlers resin - Fit and Finish - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Nov 2, 2023 · They say hide glue also adheres well to horn. If you get a good goop in the inside, it will never come off. Apparently they had glue like that in the Bronze age. It can get wet, but if you let it soak, it will come apart. The Japanese use it for various sword parts (gluing on the kurikata and kojiri, sometimes also gluing on the fuchi and kashira).